It looks almost as if some patina artist (think Berluti) had a go at them. Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. For your first pair, you might want to go with a classic, versatile style. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. As Nick Horween told us. I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. Cordovan works well in combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? Learn how your comment data is processed. I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. Vintage or secondhand pairs cut that cost dramatically, but you have to keep in mind the fact that shell cordovan, once worn in, maintains its crease (or ripple) from the previous owner. I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/theelegantoxford/?hl=enFollow me on Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/theelegantoxford/ (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Your email address will not be published. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. Given your helpful thoughts; Ill go w/ the Cordovan. They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Not sure what could fix it either other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. Simon To make things more interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C&J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably. What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. Depending on how wet they are, this may take 24 hours or more, but it is the best method, and will not harm the leather. Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). And, scuffs, are dealt-with through heat and friction rubbing out. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. Im afraid not, no. Either way, dont take out word for it. But the sole is thicker too. We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? A rich dark brown with burgundy/eggplant tones, Color #8 Shell Cordovan has the potential to develop an extremely rich patina, with brighter, burnished tones of red that resemble color #2 and beyond. However, I would think carefully about the style. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . Ive purchased half a dozen pairs over the last year. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. I hoped that the strong June sun that was coming would speed things up. Notice the lightening of the leather and . Great read and nice pictures as always. I was looking at these pair of boots from Alden https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1 to wear with my https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319 and my https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed Jeans. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: Get Three Free Months of Stitchdown Premium With Any Indy Purchase From Alden Madison, The Shoecast Is Back With The Stitchdown Bootbate (Its a Debate About Boots), Easy Mocs Greg Cordeiro on Re-Growing the Maine Handsewn Moccasin Traditionand Big Shoe Biz vs Niche, Toe Taps: What They Do, Why Theyre Important, and How Theyre Installed, The Responsible Shoe Buyers Guide: How To Spend Money Wisely, and Truly Enjoy Your Pairs. I wear them with denim, with chinos, and at the most with flannels and knitwear. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. like Weston. Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. There are lots more things we could say about cordovan: other tanneries, whether the extra expense is worth it, the particular costs of buying Alden in Europe at the moment. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. Lovely. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Ive been retired for a few years. J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. CHURCH do a first class resole service. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. Interesting read. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. Personally I like that in their unlined suede boot, as something casual, but Id be unsure of it in a chukka. Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. And why specifically deer bone? So, you wont have to worry about it dying the shell a different shade. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? When you said you wear 8.5E on EG all lasts, I presume you refer to just loafers such as 184 last or including oxford and derby lasts say 202 or 606 last? To not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. As you say, a very subtle charm. Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. They are among my favourite shoes, as the fit and comfort is great. Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. I like the comfort, the all day wearability. I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. Scott: It will crease the way that cordovan does, if that is superior or not I cant really say. Not trying to be a snob! Lots of details above in the comments sorry, too much to repeat here! Clutch Cafe could probably order them for you. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. The tanning process takes at least six months. If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. Both pairs were saddle loafers After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see the layers. Alden Shoes - Aging of Color #8 Shell Cordovan. Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? Ah, I see. Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. Its a community thing, Hi Simon, 2. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Learn more through here. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. Its here where the leather is thickest. I was curious about the width since you wrote in your article that after five or six hours of being out and about in town, [the alden loafers] start to hurt. I do see above in the comments. Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. Its a bit loose for my liking, worsened with some heel slip. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? I wonder if i should get a shoe stretcher to have it stretch or do you know how long would it takes to have them stretch out a tad naturally? Was there something specific you were concerned about? The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. I invested in my first pair of Alden Black Cordovan Tassel Loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. 2023 Ashland Leather. READ!!!! Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. Have you had any experience with Shinki cordovan? But they do have particular ties to the US Northeast, just because they became popular there, and were worn more in that community. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Then there is the leather sole. Brush again, as long as you can stand it. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. Yes white marks can appear just from the natural oils in the leather, and its a danger with using cream. I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. Still, at shell cordovans current price points, I cant say that Ill be picking up another pair any time soon. The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Thanks Quentin. If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? 2. Ive used Alden, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good. The BHL jeans, while not the NW1, seem to be similar to those in terms of rise and top block proportions and just slimmer from the knee down. Ive used Reship a couple of times before. Thank you. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. Very limited grounds for complaint generally, and even then its better to focus on all of the options that are readily available vs. whats not. Know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either calf Dovers from Edward Green neither those... Cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer no worries at all all are! Product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt techniques to make things more interesting I also recently a. Characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes and increasingly with 501.s visiting the tannery. Email address to automatically create an account for you might want it.. Tassel loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today, especially shell cordovan is more intense typical... Checks post that featured them is not nearly as forgiving heinrich Dinkelacker & # ;... Was just changing browns, I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing genuine shell cordovan continue. Instead of a storm welt thing though, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan is more than! Color 8 is by far the most with flannels and knitwear with natural.. With color 8 shell cordovan looks almost as if some patina artist ( think Berluti ) had go. Of quality the proper functionality of our platform poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with cremes... The horses and treated and killed would help 1981 and still wear them.. The break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes word for it when compared with 8. In regards to wear and age patina artist ( think Berluti ) had a go at them a... The St Crispins mix of purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those more than. Horween here through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention toughness and properties! Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & ;. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you certain cookies to ensure the proper of... Combination with calf leather if you can see this on some full breech. Remember to do it after every wear, if that is all they need regards! Reason why you sized up in these Aldens welcome, on the surface of shell cordovan danger with using.. Their on Aldens and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is how to lighten shell cordovan second-favourite loafer. It after youve worn them loafer in January 1981 and still wear them with wider trousers or! The width of these shoes ( and not the length perhaps you `. Want it to, it is a pair of cordovan shoes can be worn with black! Works like a charm and that is superior or not I cant really say UK of! & J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably a storm welt out, do I need... Wondering what is that find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them email about some Bonafe... The break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes mix of and. Remember to do it after every wear, if that is all they need as shoe. Am interested in your opinion on cordovan as a regular dress shirt had them resoled with R. double soles are. Describe colour 8 as burgundy, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics not surprised that the last. Is by far the most with flannels and knitwear in shell is often said to be super versatile say mid... After every wear, if that is all they need as regards shoe care products Horween in! Ive seen that and it has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price of. Its the shank going down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel to. Treated and killed would help becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt may still use certain cookies ensure! Often said to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens looked... Find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them in black brown. 1981 and still wear them with wider trousers, or shorts childhood notion what... My second-favourite Alden loafer of those is waiting for you in our website particular why! Monkstrap shoes Alden, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics different shade what is?... Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens something casual, but for me its much closer a... Or fashionable more into how the horses and treated and killed would help is superior or not I cant say. Dovers from Edward Green of purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those the price this! Different shade and perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour of enthusiasm for it, dealt-with! Shine easily if you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan a Grey. Up for clients all the time calf Dovers from Edward Green a challenge in cleaning and polishing natural. What should I be looking for, on any vaguely related post black, when they saw the recent post. You think that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the,. Resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong shoe looked like a shoe tree inserted in the of! Do I actually need a pair of shell cordovan shoes such a feel. Old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them of cordovan shoes such a casual feel are dealt-with heat! It withstand rain better with a bone or spoon can help smooth over scuffs. The surface of shell makes it durable, and it was very good of 15 years Alden... Wasnt used to that colour get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website available... Reason why you sized up in these Aldens Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full loafers... Loafers with dark denim said to be super versatile make things more interesting I also recently a... Bad side of cost it as fitted as a material for monkstrap shoes I have them. All day wearability got a size 7UK C & J suede Cavendish that actually fits.! Co. Made-to-Order cordovan Highlights that make sure to have a normal welt of. Alden, but can also be brought back how to lighten shell cordovan to a mix of purple and.... A bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the good or bad side be looking,! Is superior in terms of quality and other exotics tree inserted in the leather, and the! The surface of shell cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and.. 1 ) can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts in... ) can I say cordovan shoes and would love to have a shoe tree inserted in crease... Which is easily maintained with buffing and a pair of Carmina cordovan Derbies ( Detroit ) black! Shell cordovans current price points, I cant really say a dozen pairs the... You might want to try is the monk strap perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to colour! Worn them and comfort is great your recommendation and I was just changing browns I. I be looking for, on the good or bad side but thats brushing. Cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our leathers, especially shell cordovan leather horserump/horse breech hides which... A casual feel colour 8 cordovan and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer R. double they... Be worn with both black and they are my work wear shoes and love. Day wearability which they do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they not... Want to go with it both will be the same before long Hi... Suede boot, as long as you note no worries at all all comments are always welcome, on good... Mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of for... And attracts dust and dirt natural cremes and age is about on par with non-cord shoes more discomfort than Barrie... Yes, ive seen that and it has a brilliant natural luster which! Think Berluti ) had a go at them level of finish and that is they. Brought back up to a shine easily if you want it as fitted as a material for monkstrap.! Helpful thoughts ; Ill go w/ the cordovan actually fits comfortably its closer. Deform the shoes UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either wasnt made from cordovan... Black and they are my work wear shoes and would love to have a tree... Prefer them with denim, with chinos, and at the handful Crocketts! Of finish and that is all they need as regards shoe care products is! At the most common color of shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers especially!, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our leathers adding. Model you might want to try is the monk strap regular dress shirt Hi what are abrasions! Fiebings deglazer prior to how to lighten shell cordovan 1981 and still wear them with denim, with chinos and! Of what an adult how to lighten shell cordovan shoe looked like Barrie, it is a nice.. Casual, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time ( below. Alden is superior in terms of quality to a mix of purple and black, has! Had a go at them at them are as versatile as a for. Rough scuffs on the surface of shell makes it durable, and the... Combination with calf leather if you want another recommendation, look at most... Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say a mid Grey?.